To the Himalayas!

Namaste, Ju-laa (spelling?)

I am top of the Himalayas. Seriously. Here in Leh. It’s sunny and hot but not dissimilar to a nice day in Vancouver or Thunder Bay. I can see Gompas (Buddhist shrines) on the hills around me. When we flew in, we could see this little green paradise surrounded by dusty mountains and snow-capped peaks.

Other than being dehydrated and sleepy, I’m feeling well. I totally pigged out on various paneer/potato/eggplant curries and naan and rice, while the fainter few poked a bit of plain rice across their plates. I drank about 4 L of water today already and peed like a race horse. The altitude sickness medication (Diamox/Acetezolamide) that I am taking seems to be working but it is responsible for the epic urination (it is amild diuretic).

Every bit made it through the bazillion airports during my 24 hours in transit from London. Body is getting used to the jet-lag, culture-shock, rapid heart rate, etc here at 12 000 ft.

I have been keeping a journal and taking lots of photos so I won’t write too much now about how odd it was to be a pale white person in the Bahrain airport or what Delhi sounds, feels, and smells like at 2 AM. My ‘full report’ will be much wittier I hope.

Today is just a resting day and many of my team members are sick [mostly food poisoning from their early adventures in Delhi]. A few from Kingston (Queen’s university) so I’m not the only Canadian, some dentists from Scotland/N. Ireland, and a few medical students from London. The rest are Yanks, but very kind (and some very Southern!) Yanks they are.

I don’t know when we’ll be back in Leh but I will contact you again soon I hope. Take care everyone and watch out for donkies *honk honk*

I’ve been reading a lot of books about Ladakh as well as the cultural background document from The Himalayan Health Exchange. It sounds like such an amazing place, I can’t wait to get there!

For your reading pleasure, here’s a great article about Ladakh from The Globe and Mail that I’m reposting from its original site.

POSTED ON 18/12/04

‘Little Tibet’ lures trekkers and seekers
Serene monasteries and rugged peaks draw visitors to Ladakh’s
mountainous plateau
ELIZABETH DALZIEL

Whether your interest lies in rugged mountaineering, a spiritual
journey or a trek with nomads, Ladakh’s ethereal beauty is guaranteed
to enchant. Associated Press

LEH, INDIA — They are trekkers and seekers, backpackers and Buddhist
followers, and they come here for both spiritual sustenance and for
rugged hikes amid ancient monasteries and snowcapped mountains.

This northern region of India known as Ladakh is a cold desert
plateau, a western extension of the Tibetan Plateau in the great
Himalayas, on the frontier with China. Local residents include Tibetan
refugees who crossed into the Indian Himalayas through what is known
as “the roof of the world” and settled into an area now known as
Little Tibet.

Monasteries perched atop small hills above the valley attract
surprisingly large groups of Western tourists, including Europeans,
North and South Americans, and a steady stream of young Israelis
looking to decompress after completing their military service.

These visitors come both to immerse themselves in Buddhist teachings
and to master the rugged terrain. But hiking in the region and
reaching the temples is far easier for the locals, who are acclimated
to high altitudes that range from 3,500 to 7,100 metres above sea
level.

The tourists are easy to spot, clad in Bermuda shorts and toting
cameras, sunglasses, colourful hats and water bottles as they fight
the punishing sun while thronging to admire the marvels of
craftsmanship on display at the monasteries, known as gompas.

In contrast, the locals’ attire includes traditional outfits crafted
from yak wool, long gowns or jackets adorned with turquoise jewellery.

The most revered contemporary lama in Ladakh, known as Drukpa, draws a
large following (both Western and local). He is believed to be the
12th reincarnation of Naropa, a revered Buddhist scholar from the 10th
century, who is credited with introducing Buddhism to the region.

This summer, the Hemis monastery near the town of Leh hosted an
extravaganza held once every 12 years: The unveiling of a tanka, a
tall building-size traditional religious painting on silk.

The painting is dedicated to a reincarnation of the 11th Gyalwang
Drukpa. The tanka was accompanied by masked monks representing
Buddhist deities performing tantric dances.

But the Hemis event was just one of many annual religious festivals
that draw both tourists and the Buddhist faithful, who take part in
rituals — known as puyas — with great fervour. These religious
adherents include khampa nomads, who are believed to be the area’s
original settlers; the Brokpas, the last Buddhist Indo-Iranian tribe
left in the world; and the Tibetan immigrants who now populate the
area.

Ladakh is also considered to be safe for travellers, having been
spared the violence that routinely mars the peace in the nearby
insurgency-affected Kashmir Valley. (Ladakh is part of the
Jammu-Kashmir state, but is far removed from the Kashmir Valley, the
hub of the insurgency.)

Pack your bags

GETTING THERE

You can reach the regional airport in Leh via flights from Delhi,
Srinigar and Chandigarh. From the Leh airport, take a taxi into town,
where hotels and tour outfitters abound.

THINGS TO DO

Hotel staff and local outfitters can arrange such excursions as
mountaineering trips led by sherpas and whitewater rafting on the
Indrus River.

MORE INFORMATION

India’s Tourism Office in Toronto: 416-962-6279;

http://tourisminindia.com/